This year, I decided to celebrate my birthday in France! I wanted to do something special: a pampering at Les Sources De Caudalie Spa. The Caudalie line derives much of its ingredients from grapes, and supposedly they are loaded with anti-aging properties. So what better place to treat myself than somewhere with a spa AND a vineyard!
We touched down in Bordeaux on Easter Sunday, and after a lovely lunch in a brasserie in the city, we made our way to Martillac. It was a beautiful drive, and we had an interesting welcoming committee just before arriving at the hotel.
The spread that greeted us was a trifecta of splendor: Hotel+Spa+Winery.
And as if that isn’t enough, there is a Michelin restaurant on the premises (where I enjoyed my birthday dinner). The meal was outstanding, but the carafe and pouring of the wine almost stole the show.
The Chateau Haut Lafitte vineyard is just across the street from the hotel, beyond a whimsical statue of a hare (aptly named “Hospitality”). The owners’ private wine cellar is amazing, located underneath the tasting room. The wine we tried was divine, but unfortunately they don’t ship to Mallorca so we did not end up buying any.
If it’s good enough for the King and Queen, it’s good enough for us!
Our next stop was Saint Émilion, a charming little town surrounded by something like 900 vineyards! We had lunch at Logis de la Cadène, the oldest restaurant in the town (1848!) and also a Michelin restaurant. The dishes were so creative and tasted every bit as good as they looked!
Our first wine tasting was one kilometer outside Saint Émilion at Chateau Franc Mayne, where we learned all about “Grand Cru Classé.” It is a prestigious classification that started in Saint Émilion in the 1950s. The vineyard sits on a limestone plateau and its cellar is an old stone quarry, where stone was extracted centuries ago to build houses, chateaux and churches in the surrounding area.
Our second wine tasting was at Chateau Fonplégade, where we were referred to by a member – it is a private vineyard owned by an American, Denise Adams, who has managed to infiltrate the wine culture in France. The vineyard is named for the 13th century fountain that sits above the chateau, and which has not run out of water since it was built! The vineyard is not only organic – it is biodynamic – a form of agriculture that aims to improve the earth to a better condition than when it first began to be farmed. It is based on ideas developed by Rudolph Steiner, the first person to introduce organic agriculture. (He also established the Waldorf Schools and Anthroposophical medicine. I have studied Anthroposophy and his ideas are very esoteric.)
Our tour of the property was so much fun, and very educational. The wine tasting was spectacular, and we left wanting more and hoping to return for a harvest so we can meet the proprietor!
Our last two days were spent in Bordeaux. It is such a beautiful city! We shopped, drank great wine, ate fabulous food, admired the architecture, and basically soaked in that famous “je ne sais quoi” that is France.
Luckily, it’s a quick one-hour flight from Palma to Bordeaux, so we will be back! Au revoir #Bordeaux!
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