Posts Tagged With: travel

 
 

Out of Africa

Recently, we took a trip somewhere I never thought I would go, South Africa. We spent three incredible weeks traveling around the cape, and my head is still spinning! In fact, I’m not even sure I can do it justice in this blog….but I will give it a try. Those of you who have been to Africa, l know you understand.

 

Our trip started in Cape Town, which is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It is located at the foot of Table Mountain, which has been included on the list of ‘wonders of the world.’ The vibe along the waterfront is energetic and fun, and as we strolled along we were certainly not the only ones swept up in the enthusiasm of the crowd!

We had a few places on our list of restaurants to try on the trip, and the first one was Pier Restaurant. We enjoyed an outstanding lunch that was as creative as it was delicious.

Sourdough bread and spread
Smoked mussels
House made crackers
Yellowfin tuna
Treasure Chest (desserts)

Table Mountain beckoned in the distance, so of course we had to go see it for ourselves. Walking along the top was like walking on another planet: the views over the city, the ocean and the countryside were incredible. At that moment, I had no idea that Africa was going to seep into my blood like the mist that swirled around us (aka the “tablecloth”). It was indeed just the beginning of the visual feast that is South Africa, with many incredible ‘dishes’ to come!

Table Mountain
Cable car up to the top
Lion’s Head

After Cape Town, we flew up to Port Elizabeth, which was a jumping off point for our safari. We chose Shamwari, a private game reserve and one of the largest private conservation initiatives in Southern Africa. We stayed at the flagship lodge, Sindile, (meaning ‘survivor’, and named after one of the reserve’s beloved rescue leopards) in beautiful luxury tents set on a ridge. The view over the river and plains was breathtaking, and the water hole below attracted a daily migration of animals that was so fun to watch.

Sindile

It is impossible to describe the feeling of settling in to sleep at night to the sound of lions roaring … it felt as if they were right outside the tent!

Our tent

Every morning and late afternoon, our private ranger took us out to see the wildlife. It was amazing and exhilarating and sometimes downright scary! We also got the chance to visit the wildlife rehab center on site, as well as the sanctuary where lions and leopards that have suffered horrendously at the hands of man are able to live out the rest of their lives in peace.

Our ride
Fresh kill!
Lonely cheetah (lost his brother)
So many elephants!
Coffee break

After Shamwari, we made our way along the Garden Route back towards Cape Town. The scenery along the way was absolutely beautiful, with farms and fynbos (the Cape’s indigenous flora) stretching as far as the eye could see. I thought the United States was big, but it doesn’t hold a candle to South Africa!! The landscape morphed into lush forested mountains, and we crossed over bridges that spanned steep caverns below. Along the route, we stopped in Plettenberg (‘Plett’) and Wilderness (don’t you just love that name) in hotels perched high above the Indian Ocean. The views and hospitality were stellar. We hiked a bit, watched for whales (I spotted a mother and calf at breakfast!) and ate more delicious food.

Plettenberg Hotel
Plettenberg Bay
Hiking near Plett
Tough getting uphill sometimes!
Our hotel room in Wilderness
Wilderness sunset

After Wilderness, we continued south and drove into the interior for a bit before making our way along a dusty gravel road which brought us to De Hoop Nature Reserve. Only three hours east of Cape Town, it seemed a world away, where the mountains and the ocean flank 34,000 hectares of beaches, dunes, wetlands and fynbos. The Reserve is at the southern tip of Africa, and incredibly, it is one of only six floral Kingdoms of the World – and also a World Heritage Site. It is a prime location for spotting migrating whales, but our guide told us that unfortunately there weren’t very many this year. In fact, the numbers were down from well over a thousand last year to just fifty-something this year.

Sand boards (why didn’t we have these in Saudi?)
My first attempt.
Gin tonics after sand boarding.

After all that nature, we were ready for some serious wine tasting, and our last stop was Franshhoek, one of the most beautiful valleys I’ve ever seen. We stayed in the fabulous Leeu Estates, which not only produces its own wine but also features local artists both on the grounds and in the lovely gallery on site.

Art Gallery

We had two divine tasting menus during our stay: one in La Petite Colombe (which was next to the gallery) and one in Epice, located in town. Both restaurants are in the same group as The Pier Restaurant (Colombe) and I can’t say enough about them. My mouth is watering just remembering the incredible food!

But let’s not forget about the wine….there are so many great vineyards in Franschhoek!

I’ll leave off with some of my favorite photos from the trip…..

Penguins!
Baboons!
Oops!
Zebras! (my favorite)
Dassies
Giraffe!

Have you been to South Africa? If so, I’d love to hear your favorite spots! I’m already planning my next trip. 🙂

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Hotel Hell

I love to travel. The flying I can do without, but visiting new places is like crack to me. Because my step-children live in Germany, G and I fly over to Europe several times a year. We get the kiddies and take them somewhere that will be fun for them and tolerable for us. Then, when we drop them off, we spend a night or two somewhere wonderful and romantic as a reward. Grown-up time.

When I’m looking at possible destinations, I do tons of research. First, I check out Trip Advisor to see what other people think of the places I plan to go. Sometimes I check out Frommer’s, too. I always Google the city itself to see what there is to do and see. All the while I am making a list of hotels and sights and restaurants.

That sounds pretty organized, I know. Not something I’m known for. G has been good for me that way, because he is really organized. He has different wallets for each country and all the itineraries and car rental agreements printed and tucked in a folder in his carry-on bag. So I don’t feel so bad when we arrive at the airport in, say, Hamburg, and I realize I left my sheet of paper with all my notes on it on the bedside table at home.

However, having my notes in hand doesn’t always work out for us. Sometimes the info I’ve read is outdated. Take our trip to Costa Rica a couple of years ago, for example. I made G drive all over San José looking for a club that was highly recommended by Frommer’s. We kept circling this sketchy looking neighborhood and finally found ourselves in front of a dilapidated brick building surrounded by barbed wire topped walls. There are a lot of those in San José, by the way. It didn’t make us feel very comfortable or even safe in the city.

The thing that really gets me, though, is the mixed reviews that every hotel I look at seems to have. For every

“It was the best stay ever!” there is always a

“The service was lousy!” and then there’s

“The bed was so comfortable it was incredible!”and under that

“My feet stuck to the carpet and the faucets in the bathroom dripped all night”

How the hell are you supposed to choose a hotel after reading that? In the end I usually pick one that has mostly good reviews. If it’s a draw then I try a different site altogether, like a foreign hotel chain, and hope for the best.

I’d love to be able to say that I’ve had nothing but wonderful experiences, but that would be a lie. I’ve picked some doozies. The last trip over we were forced to listen to pigeons cooing on the windowsill the whole night. At first it was kind of cute, but after three or so hours I was ready to shoot one of them. Nobody mentioned pigeons on Trip Advisor. And then there was the B & B a couple years ago that basically had the bathroom in the bedroom, separated by a glass wall. Now I really love my husband, but I don’t need to know what’s happening in the bathroom. And I’m not comfortable with him being able to see what I’m doing in there, either. A girl needs her privacy.

And as for my carefully written out list of restaurants? We never tried any of them the last trip over. Instead, we ate at the hotel every night, exhausted from schlepping a five- and a seven-year-old around town on very little sleep (thanks to the friggin’ birds).

Don’t shoot me.

Anyone out there have a better way to pick a hotel? I would be very grateful for any suggestions!

Categories: Travel | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

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